10 long days

There's not going to be many posts from India this week. On Thursday evening I put Leanne and Daisy on a plane to Brisbane. They are now safely in Toowoomba with John and Betty getting things ready or Nic's wedding.
Whilst we were trying to get into Bangalore airport, we had to make our way through some heavy crowds. We burst through them and were just about to get to the terminal door when we noticed what the crowds were for: the Indian cricket team had been in town and were heading off to their next destination. We stood at the front of the crowd we'd just pushed our way through as they walked past and into the terminal.
Inside, the building was fairly empty. Because of the scares that had taken place at London Heathrow that day they were only letting through people with valid air tickets although I managed to get through without one, so it was probably more show than anything else; or maybe they just didn't put a white man with a wife and baby as a high-risk visitor. I've certainly noticed that where locals get stopped at doors, in general I can waltz on through.

So, that was Thursday night. Since then I've been kicking around the house by myself. We've spoken every day and they're settling in well, although Daisy's been a bit clingy so far. It's odd having the place to myself for such a long period, and it probably won't happen again for a very long time. I'm making the most of it and have now watched 2 movies without interruption. It would have been 3, but a powercut put an hour intermission in that one.

I fly out on Monday which is now only a week away. Work will keep me busy in the evenings and I'm using the mornings to get things ready for the company we're starting in Oz. The website's starting to look pretty good and if I can get some stock bought and the required paperwork completed then I hope to start selling in time for the new school year in January.

Daisy's first dip!

There were smiles all around as Daisy had her first swim in the sea. At first she was a little in awe of it all but then soon got into jumping over the waves or feeling them receed around her ankles. The water was lovley and warm. I learn't later that nothing dries in the monsoon, even things that were no where near the water are damp. It was lovely to have heat and humidity and rain and sea though, quite the weather experience. 

Wet and Wild!

Saturday afternoon saw us heading off to Goa. This is about half way up the west coast toward Bombay and takes aobut an hour and a half. We flew Kingfisher airlines, in a turbo prop and had one of the best flights that we have had in years. Before take off we all got a little zip up bag of goodies, pens included. Flying over Bangalore was a little precarious as the monsoon winds manifest themselves as turbulance here so while I was white knuckle gripping the arm rests, Chris had his head to the window and giving a running commentary of what he could see! It wasn't long before we were fed and watered and the coast was coming into view. We wanted to catch a government taxi as we had to travel over an hour down the coast and wanted to be safe. There was some mix up and so the taxi people outsourced to the neighbouring vehicle hire company or something like that. We were soon issued with our driver and found ourselves hurtling down the highway. There was obviously a fire somewhere or the driver thought we were in a hurry. It has to be by far the most harrowing drive we have had yet in India. Conversation dwindled to nothing within minutes as we realised that we faced potential death. Requests to slow down didn't seem to make any difference. We were overtaking on blind bends and screeching the tired around corners. We braced ourselves as best we could and held onto Daisy tightly as we flew over potholes. After an hour of this we reached our destination quite exhausted. We were staying in an ashram in a small fishing village. If you visit the website then you will see why on earth we chose to stay here www.bhaktikutir.com.
We had a lovely stone cottage surrounded by lush tropical foliage. We even had a solid floor, electricity, a ceiling fan and a western sit down toilet. At the front was this verandah that you could sit out on and gaze at the palm trees. Because of the overgrowth everything dripped either from the humidity or the rain. Our cottage was lovely and cool. It had a big double bed with a hessian mattress and an old mosquito net. The room was lovely but one downside was that the bathroom was separated from the bed by a small partition wall. Unfortuately Chris chose this weekend to succumb to dribbly bottom syndrome. I think that this is the 'for better or for worse' part of the marriage vows! (note: Chris is up to day five now of his 'condition' so we have started him on antibiotics. I am not sure if it is bacterial or protazoal so will just keep trialing drugs until something works!) Another thing that amazed us was the size of the ants, or small wildebeast would be a more apt description. After settling in and unpacking scrabble we headed off to find a resturant. The caretaker said to walk along the beach to the main village and we would be right. So following her instructions we found ourselves climbing down a small cliff, skirting around a swamp, backtracking because of the the incoming tide and climbing over rocks. Still now sign of resturants or anything. We were in the heart of our little village which consisted of houses made from woven grasses and boats and nets. We found our way back to the ashram and ordered a rickshaw. We headed to Palolem beach as described by the lonely planet ' a sweeping crescent of white sand fringed by a shady rim of coconut palms is postcard perfect'. This isn't exactly what we found.
We know that this is monsoon season and not the tourist hub but the beach was really dirty. it wasn't german tourists that you had to fight with to get spot but cow pats!! There was dog poo and cow poo for as far as the eye could see. The beach was als very littered with all manner of general rubbish. We had trouble seeing beyond this to the magical place we were led to believe existed. Daisy did manage to dip her toes, and then her legs and then her bottom in the sea. She absolutely loved it after the first bit of trepidation. Then nothing would abate her hunger so we headed off to eat. Not much was open but we did find a nice little italian resturant and ordered pizza. Our fellow travellers consisted of what looked like 12 year olds, all in tie dye and having a joint before dinner. By the time our dinner arrived Daisy was beyond hunger and pizza wasn't the anwser. Luckily I had an old banana left over and some dried fruit and she ate this. We chose to head back just as the heavens opened. We were thankful to find that the tuk tuks are more like black cabs and have a lot more protection around you from the elements. It even had a little windscreen wiper! Our cottage was lovley but sleep didn't come easy. The temperature steamed and dropped with wild abandon so I was up to DAisy covering her and uncovering her. She was in her cot on the floor so I also kept vigil unless an ant carried her off! With getting in and out of the mosquito net, I inadvertently left it exposed to the cockroach that later made its appearance in my hair! For those that live in Australia you will understand the size of cockroach that I am talking about. I settled into a fitful sleep around 5am once Chris and I had decided that this really wasn't for us at this stage in our lives and made plans to up sticks. We all slept then til 8am and wandered up to the kitchen and had some lovely toast and jam surrounded by quite the menagerie of cats and dogs, much to Daisy's absolute delight. We then headed off to another beach. 

Banglaore Transport Part Two: 3 Wheels

This is our fifth post today so be sure to scroll down. There's some good articles involving monkeys and families on mopeds that you don't want to miss!

Bangalore would grind to a [more permanent] halt if the taxis were the four-wheeled yellow or black varieties favoured by New York and London respectively.
Instead you have the marvellous Auto Rickshaws which are manufactured by Bajaj here in India.


They fly through the traffic taking the citizens of this city from point a to point b for a very reasonable charge. They don't just cater for the two legged inhabitants. There's even Small Animals Ambulances for our four legged friends:


The majority of three-wheelers are auto-rickshaws and many owners love them dearly. Karsten's been in one that featured three speakers on the rear shelf, a CD system and neon lighting. Leanne and I recently saw one that was a mobile Christian shrine with quotations from the Bible and images of Christ all over it.
They're all different in one way or another, but there's two rules for picking a good one:
1. Insist they use the meter. Many will try to agree an inflated price up-front so if they won't use the meter (or won't offer a reasonable price) then you just wait 30 seconds for another to come along.
2. Don't choose a young one. The older ones have clearly lasted longer and so you stand a chance of doing the same!

Banglaore Transport Part One: 2 Wheels

I've been meaning for a while to start a series of blog entries showing the cars, bikes and busses of Bangalore. In this first entry I'm focussing on the two wheeled vehicles. This is probably the most common style of pedal bike on the streets of Bangalore.


It has rod brakes, a beautifully sprung saddle and that's about it. This is a deluxe model with a light and a bell.I'm thinking of buying one as even the best ones cost little more than £25 new. People riding them look very elegant, even when there's someone riding pillion!

Of course, if you want to carry more than two people on a bike, you have to have a motor to pull them along. Credit for this next photo must go to my colleague Karsten.


We've not yet seen more than four people on a bike. Each time it's been four adults and four children, often with the lady riding side-saddle. We once saw three adults on a bike and the jury is still out deciding whether that beats the classic two adults/two kids combo. Whatever the decision, the Bangalore Motorcycle Display Team must be an awesome sight!

Finally, here's a photo that Lea took especially for Colin, but which I know will interest a few other readers:


It's a Royal Enfield, the famous marque that started life in Britain before migrating to India. I'm not the best person to tell you the full story, so if you want to know more you should visit the Royal Enfield website. 

Our photo shoot traumas

The musical gardens that we went to on the way home from Mysore are very popular with local tourists. I think we were the only caucasians in a sea of locals. We definitely stood out. As we walked around one of us would fend off people trying to touch Daisy. Some people understood when we objected but mostly they got offended when you gently guide their hands away from her. Sometimes they ask if they can take a picture and we usually say no but mostly we hear the sound of the shutter or the mobile phone to realise that someone, usually always a male, is taking her photo. It is a sad state of contemporary society that I get anxious when strange men take photos of my baby girl. If they are obviously tourists and it is quiet and they ask nicely then we do say yes, especially if they all want to be in the photo as well. I think back to all the wonderful children that I have photographed in Nepal and Mexico. At the time I thought nothing of what their mothers thought!It all seems so different now to have someone photograph Daisy. Above is a photo of when we stopped to feed her some dinner. Within minutes we were surrounded by people who were snapping away left, right and centre. We felt like they were paparazzi! She of course loved it and there would be smiles all round from Daisy. Eventually it got too much and Christopher rose up and ordered everyone to leave us alone. At one stage they were two and three people deep, all in a semi-circle around us, well around Daisy. We try and be friendly and understanding about it but we both find it very unsettling so not only do we keep our guard up for people pinching Daisy's cheeks but also for people taking her photo. I quite often get asked in the grocery store. I have to be careful as a couple of times in the store I have looked around to find someone trying to take her out of the trolley to show her off or something. Then I freak out and start screaming like a banshee to leave my baby alone!! It is something that we have to deal with everyday and we haven't found a solution to yet.

Mysore (Part 4)

This is the parade ground. (I am not srue who this guy is that seems to be parading!) The maharajah would sit under the main arch, aboutthree storeys up and survey all that he owned. The grounds were huge and held this area and also two hindu temples. At the entrances to this area were large bronze tiger/leopard/big cat things. They were very impressive. Two similar ones to these were in the courtyard inside the palace. Daisy liked them especially.
She drew quite a crowd who all wanted to photograph her. You would be watching her and then from behind here the sounds of shutteres going off. We coudlnt' get her down as she just wanted to pat and hug the big pussy cat. We headed off back out into the streets in search of Raj our driver. At the entrance were sellars and beggars. It was our first sight of the snake charmers and their dancing cobras. In the service station the other day we were waiting and an old woman came up with her hand out. Christopher thought she was asking for money and it took a little while to realise that she had a snake in a basket and was saying...'here look at my snake and now give me money'. Christopher let her kow that he wasn't too impressed with ehr snake and soon caught up to Daisy and I who at run off at the sight of the snake. I am not sure if Daisy wanted to watch but as I was carrying her, her only option was with me! We were accosted by sellers of braclets and jewellery and noise makers and wooden boxes. one seller nearly had his arm taken off as I was closing the car door and he insisted on thrusting his carved box into the car and saying, 'bargain only 500 rupees, bargain, you buy?? Okay okay, only 400 for you!' he kept saying this as I closed the door much to everyone elses amusement. Next stop was to some famous 'musical' gardens. We weren't sure what they entailed but they were certianly popular! Once again we threw ourselves into the throng. Someone always walks to the back of Daisy and fends off people trying to touch her. Even up high on Christophers back they can suddenly reach in and pinch her cheeks or touch her and then kiss their fingers. We wanered around and found a place free of dog poo and ants nests to feed Daisy. She had the last of her jars of baby food. It will come a time soon that I will have to buy her food when we are out. I have nothing to store home cooked meals in for a days travel. Our meals wasn't very peaceful as I shall write later. It soon became dark and the fountains where lit up with different coloured lights. At the top of the terrace was a big fountian that sprayed water to the sound of rock music. Everyone, and I mean close to 2000 people all stood around and cheered. It was nice but we couldn't really see the attraction. By 7.30 we headed back over a walkway on the water and to the car. It was a huge commerical place adn there were sellers and littel carts selling all types of food from deep fried things to cobs of corn to heavily spice whole fish!
We all climbed back into our car and headed for Bangalore. Raj our driver was excellent and managed to dodge the traffic that came in our direction and at night!! We felt very safe and Daisy slept the whole way home. We got home about midnight and all round we felt that we had had a lovely lovely day. 

Still at the Palace

(I have written this blog entry three times, each time taking about 40 mins and then it all disappears so sorry for the delay in finishing our visit.)After Christopher had finished galavanting around on elephants, we headed toward the museum which was housed in the older part of the palace. While we were waiting we were
entertained by this fella. He was sitting on the balastrading right above our heads. It was soon joined by a baby monkey that was very cute. Apparently there has been
monkeys in our apartment complex but we haven't seen nay yet. Other friends from baby group who live in houses say they have trouble with monkeys stealing fruit off the
trees and often see them running along the high wall fencing around their houses. We watched as this guy clambered down the drainpipe and headed toward us! Daisy was thrilled as I was back her away rather rapidly. All I could think of after a
particular nasty episode with a monkey in Indonesai years ago, was her getting biten and catching rabies and worms and mites and all sorts of unimaginable diseases!
(Actually I can imagine most diseases here and some that don't even exist!!) This monkey came quite close and then headed to the garbage bin where a juice container proved
to be far more interesting. So with screams and shouts form the locals he was chased off.
We headed into the museum. The first room we came to was like an interior
courtyard that was open to the sky. It wasn't very big and held lots of tropical plants in the cnetre. Around the edges were display cabinets filled with possessions from
the maharajah. Things like, combs and brushes and shoe horns and clothing, and shoes and turbans. In the centre near the plants were differing types of transport vehicles.
There were elaborate seats that wre carried by elephants all covered with faded brocade and small boxes that would have been carried by people, all heavily carved. There was
a little wagon that would hve been pulled either by a donkey or a goat. The 'piece de resistance' was a fabulous tin peddle car. It would have been a childrens toy.
Christopher was capivated! There were three of them and one looked as though it held a small motor. They were early 1920's and though faded, they were in perfect condition.
Next time we go I shall take a photo. We moved through the remaining rooms which held more 'things'. One room had at least 12 grammaphones and old record players. You
could imagine people draped around the room all listening to 'The charleston' and smoking cigars or cigarettes out of long holders. The place had a real roaring 20's feel to
it. This is one of the rooms that had been set up.
This one has more of an Indian influence than british. The pictures and photos on the wall reminded us that this is
relatively recent history, not even one hundred years ago. It feels quite strange after having lived in England for so long and even our house was older than this. We were
quite taken with the museum. We wandered aroudn and then headed back out into the sunshine. We made our way back to our shoes, which always surprises me that they are still
there. I must buy some really cheap shoes and wear to these places where I know we have to leave them outside. We walked around the edge of the palace to the front where
there was a massive parade ground hwere the processions of elephants all highly deocrated buse to be presented to the Maharajah that sat on his thorne inside the palace.